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How To Clean And Paint A T5 Transmission

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what kind of paint to use to paint transmission

  • Thread startertrackfwd
  • Start date
  • #one
26
0
Nov thirty, 2009
San Diego, California
I'chiliad in the process of replacing my clutch and wanted to clean upwardly my transmission/paint it a not shiny silver,any recommendations on spray paints
  • #2
381
3
December 17, 2006
Seguin, Texas
You tin can use some high temp paint from autozone, I wouldn't recommend using regular paint every bit the tranny volition be heating up.
  • Thread starter
  • #3
26
0
November 30, 2009
San Diego, California
Wow that looks awesome,thats what I'm looking for, what kind of loftier oestrus paint do you recommend TiradoCC equally for make wise,thanks
Concluding edited by a moderator:
  • #four
381
3
December 17, 2006
Seguin, Texas
AutoZone.com | High Estrus Paint

Get to the very lesser, they make a "flat aluminum" colour.
This will exist proficient for what you accept in mind without breaking the bank.
Simply keep in heed that if the tranny is not prepped correctly information technology won't thing if you purchase $1 paint or $100 pigment.

Also, this is non what was used on the tranny pictured. Tin can't give away all of our secrets :thumb:

  • Thread starter
  • #5
26
0
Nov 30, 2009
San Diego, California
AutoZone.com | Loftier Rut Paint

Become to the very bottom, they make a "apartment aluminum" colour.
This will be good for what you have in heed without breaking the bank.
Just go on in mind that if the tranny is non prepped correctly it won't matter if you purchase $ane paint or $100 paint.

Besides, this is non what was used on the tranny pictured. Can't give away all of our secrets :thumb:

Cheers again TiradoCC

  • #6
381
three
Dec 17, 2006
Seguin, Texas
  • #vii
Metalpunk68
48
0
Mar 20, 2009
Marysville, California
I would definately use the high heat enamel =]] looks great
  • #viii
steve
fourteen,274
1,264
February 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
  • #9
2slow4now
1,313
37
Nov 20, 2008
somerset, Kentucky
If you got a buddy with one of those cheap paw held sand blasters simply use that and make sure you go anything plugged, taped, and protected from the abrassive and clothing the proper protective gear. Information technology will look all nice again and if spots have some corrosion or discoloring hit information technology with the eastwood.
  • #10
snowborder714
xvi,154
309
Oct 15, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania

This is what some of the guys who practice tranny rebuilds use. It's a nice color and should hold up well.
  • #eleven
iugrad92turbo
12,834
788
May 22, 2007
Kalamazoo, Michigan
I never tried that other stuff i had but it didnt hold up, since the machine is down im merely going to glassbead it, i used a lot of that looks like new.
  • #12
pauleyman
7,581
2,335
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
A piffling time has passed since these threads started. I merely glass beaded my instance and i don't want it to corrode. I'm torn between painting it or a matte clear. How well has anybodys alumablast or parts store paint held up? If i pigment it I'k leaning toward alumablast. I'd really like to clean up the hardware too but i merely can't justify new bolts.
  • #xiii
Morphius
1,896
57
Jun 9, 2003
M-Town, Michigan
I'd really like to clean up the hardware as well but i just tin't justify new bolts.

Have you thought almost buying something like a Harbor freight vibratory tumbler to clean the hardware up and then use some elementary electrolysis to recoat them? I continue telling myself I'm going to get a tumbler, but oasis't yet. I've seen several YouTube vids of people using the tumblers with some bully success.

Personally, I have several 5 gal buckets of 1g and 2g hardware from some cars I stripped totally bare. I going to be diving into electrolysis this summertime for some projects. Might have to try doing some hardware.

  • #14
pauleyman
seven,581
2,335
Nov nineteen, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Have you thought about buying something like a Harbor freight vibratory tumbler to clean the hardware upward and then apply some uncomplicated electrolysis to recoat them? I keep telling myself I'grand going to get a tumbler, merely oasis't even so. I've seen several YouTube vids of people using the tumblers with some smashing success.

Personally, I accept several 5 gal buckets of 1g and 2g hardware from some cars I stripped totally bare. I going to be diving into electrolysis this summer for some projects. Might accept to try doing some hardware.

I have considered this. I also thought I should hit the junkyard and go nether the dash of some newer mitsubishi to get clean bolts. Good place for non structural hardware.
I had a 5 gallon bucket years agone fir the same reason. Tornado took it.
  • #xv
dustyboner
one,944
i,056
Mar 13, 2016
abq, New_Mexico
on the concluding acura i did, i did a quick smooth on the tranny with blue magic metallic polish (from napa). information technology leaves a silicone coating to protect the metallic.

in this moving-picture show the shifter cable bracket is painted with VHT aluminum. VHT painted parts need to be baked at 200F for an 60 minutes or so which is why i decided to employ polish the transmission instead of painting it.

this movie shows the deviation between the VHT and the polished parts pretty good.
the PS pump and oil pan got VHT pigment. The alternator, intake mani, and fuel rail got a quick shine.

this is what it looked like before

Concluding edited:
  • #xvi
1990TSIAWDTALON
8,720
4,636
November xiv, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I use Krylon 1403 Irksome Aluminum and it has lasted on SBC intake manifolds, I would think information technology would hold up on a manual too.
  • #17
XC92
1,292
267
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
Since I have my trans out and fully disassembled and will be waiting on parts I ordered I figured I might paint it in the meantime. Since I'thou not looking to become fancy I picked up a can of Duplicolor aluminum color engine enamel that's rated upwards to 500F:
Of course I'll get-go clean all outside surfaces thoroughly and scratch them up so the paint adheres. I have several questions though.

One, practise I need to prime it first, and if so does it accept to be high estrus primer, such as Duplicolor's own engine enamel primer, or Rustoleum high estrus engine primer, which I already have? Or tin can I use Rustoleum self-etching primer, which I also already have and accept used with much success, albeit on non-loftier temp parts?

2, should I apply a clear top coat?

And iii, I'm thinking of putting the case together, without internal parts or bolts (gravity should take care of sufficiently sealing mating surfaces), bell housing end down, all openings masked (including bolt holes), and painting it that way. Would that work?

Any other pointers, tips, things to lookout out for, etc.?

Oh, I was also hoping to make clean, derust & paint the t-case. Same answers, or somewhat unlike, especially for the bandage atomic number 26 (steel?) half? Is it also high heat?

Last edited:
  • #xviii
1990TSIAWDTALON
viii,720
4,636
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I run that Krylon 1403 on H2o Pumps and intake manifolds and accept since the 70'south. It always held up fine. Here is what it looks like on obviously Cast Iron (but now looks like a Corvette HP Aluminum water pump).
Information technology makes things expect like fresh cleaned aluminum.
Same for the Krylon 9203 Semi-Flat Black if you want something to wait like fresh blackness plastic. :thumb:
Tips from the 1970's. Glad they however make those colors. I had O'Riellys order both and now they stock them.
  • #19
XC92
1,292
267
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
A little time has passed since these threads started. I only glass beaded my case and i don't want it to corrode. I'grand torn between painting it or a matte clear. How well has anybodys alumablast or parts store pigment held upwards? If i paint it I'm leaning toward alumablast. I'd really like to make clean up the hardware too but i only tin't justify new bolts.

I'yard sure yous've long since found a solution and put the trans dorsum on, but for anyone who's faced with the same dilemma, what I've done, if the hardware is still usable, is use a wire wheel drill zipper to remove as much rust and grime from them as possible, and then paint them with clear topcoat so they don't get rusty all over again.

This normally does the trick and the hardware looks near new. Information technology as well cleans upward the threads which I imagine makes for a more secure fit, more authentic torque reading, and allows a clean coat of threadlock or antiseize to be applied, every bit needed.

The right way to secure the hardware is probably with a vise or vise-grip pliers (don't smush the threads though!), but I've usually just held the parts carefully with my fingers using cheap gloves and basically sacrificed the gloves.

Too, make sure to clean the threads of any through or blind holes using a metal wire pipage cleaner, and if it's a bullheaded hole make sure to blow out the removed droppings.

Still wondering if I demand to prime the trans before painting it though, and if so with what.

  • #20
ist dwa
520
287
Nov v, 2009
Centerville, Ohio
Aluma blast is your all-time bet for a silver TRANS pigment, but honestly information technology all looks like shit over time.

I paint all my trains either Duplicolor semi gloss blackness, bandage atomic number 26, or but flat black primer. Three years down the road they look merely the same!!

Uninstalled is a black with a metal flake in it.


Installed is the depression gloss black
one on cardboard is cast iron
  • #21
XC92
1,292
267
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
Nice jobs, those look really nice. Did yous prime number?
  • #22
ist dwa
520
287
November 5, 2009
Centerville, Ohio
Never, and here is a 2nd benefit, if you scratch it up etc, you can just bear on it upwards so it e'er looks new.
  • #23
XC92
1,292
267
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
Did you paint the bong housing, or is that bad?

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Source: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-kind-of-paint-to-use-to-paint-transmission.362846/

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